Auschwitz: A Dark Past Enlightens the Present

   

The Gate to the Camp. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

     We left Warsaw with a whole new perspective about Poland and went back to that autobahn which we arduously searched after our jaunt in Berlin. After missing the right exit, we finally hit the right road leading to our destination. It was an amalgamation of asphalted and semi-asphalted series of roads which was undergoing total repair and rehabilitation. After getting lost several times due to the inaccuracy of the navigation system, we decided to ask someone for directions. Then we finally reached the biggest concentration camp during the Nazi regime, The Auschwitz.

Barbwires and live wires are prominent features of the entire compound. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      Parking was not a problem when we arrived, but had we arrived a little later, it would have been tough. Several tourist buses were already parked across the ticket hall and a multitude of tourists – both young and old – were queuing up at the entrance gate. I was thinking that possibly, the reason why these people come here is the very same reason why I travelled half across the globe to see with my own eyes what is left of the reality that history books and documentaries tell about the Holocaust. My two-day stay in Krakow furthered my background knowledge of the unfortunate and injustice Jews all across Europe had suffered from the hands of the Nazis.  

The receiving area for the Jews. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      We wasted no time and proceeded immediately to the ticket booths. There was a celebration that day, so the entrance was for free; however guided tours were not. We opted to explore the museum on our own and headed towards the memorable entrance gate which bears the infamous sentence: “Arbeit macht frei" (Work sets you free).

Well-preserved quarters which housed hundreds of Jews. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      The whole compound is a UNESCO World Heritage and therefore, well-preserved. It means the camp’s appearance during the Holocaust has been well-maintained. The surrounding fence is bedecked with barbwire and live wire to prevent Jews from escaping. Right after the infamous gate is an area where Jews are received and sorted. When you enter this gate, you will feel the despondency of the place. It creeps to your bones and it will just hit you. It is normal to witness men and women sobbing by merely stepping inside the camp. There is pure sadness in the air. Tear drops of sadness will fall from your eyes voluntarily.

One of the Offices in the compound. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Pictures of Jews who were publicly executed in 1943. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Where Jews were publicly hanged. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      

    The brick-walled buildings serve as offices for the Nazi officers and as sleeping quarters for the thousands of Jews. Each building has a story to tell – story of grief, brutality, hostility, and perhaps of hope that one day when enough labor has been done, they will be freed. One building tells the story of children, men, women, and twins who were used as medical guinea pigs by Nazi doctors. 

Some pictures of Jews who died in the camp. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Hundreds of luggage from captured Jews. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    The other tells about the origins of the prisoners through tagged and named pieces of luggage which piled across the room. One tells how Jews were robbed and stripped of each belonging that they had. Still, some tell of how everyday life was for the Jews that time. And one tells of the agony and fear while waiting to be brutally executed at the execution square.

Gate to the execution alley. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Room where women were stripped before execution. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

What's left from those who were executed. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    Near the exit of the camp is the abominable gas chamber where thousands of Jews were mercilessly killed through suffocation. Tourists can enter this facility. It is creepy and at the same truly heart-breaking thinking that once hundreds of innocent men, women, and children were standing and hugging one another in the same room you’re standing waiting for their harrowing death. The pain is simply unfathomable.

The entrance to the gas chamber. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Inside the gas chamber. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      Auschwitz was freed when the Allied Forces defeated the Nazi regime. Trials for the perpetrators began and many were sentenced to death. There is a place showing where the Nazi officers were executed for crimes against humanity.

The first Commandant of Auschwitz was hanged here on 16 April 1947. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

      The Jews who managed to survive this dreadful place told inspiring stories to the world. And those who died are never forgotten. Their stories will continue to live as long as we live. 

For the future generation to remember the past. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

A Saint, the Jews, and Krakow

Participants are Getting Ready for the Parade. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From Warsaw, we travelled by car south to Krakow which is absolutely unfamiliar to me. This is another historically important city which is often mentioned in documentaries or movies whose theme is Jews and the Holocaust. And recently, it has become even more popular because of the beatification of Pope John Paul II who started his priesthood here.

Road leading to Krakow from Warsaw. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

There was no autobahn directly connecting Warsaw to Krakow. At the time of our travel in May 2015, the only possibility was through country roads which were not really in good condition. However, I could see that there were several road constructions going on which would connect three autobahns (A1, A2 and A4) together. This would make travelling much faster in the future because it would by-pass cities and villages which normally slow down traffic.

 

Old Jewish Settlement. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Initially, I wasn’t really impressed about Krakow. Buildings looked abandoned and the looked as if no amount of care or restoration is being made to salvage them from decay or eventual collapse. Then, its rich history taught me of its sufferings during the war. Those sufferings are still evident in these buildings.

Factory once rented by Oscar Schindler. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Our walk to the Old Jewish settlement took me to one of Oskar Schindler’s rented factories which employed several Jews during the Holocaust. This employment also saved several hundreds of lives.  

Corpus Christi Church (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

St. Pauline Church on the Rock. (Photo by Gregg Manalo) 

There are also synagogues and churches with elaborate interiors in the area. One thing I noticed in Poland is that taking photos inside the churches is strictly prohibited and visitation during Mass is not allowed. This part of Krakow also seemed to look more impoverished because of the old buildings that were not renovated.

 

The High Synagogue. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Our second day in Krakow was spent in The Old Town. Our hotel was strategically located to it (10 minutes walk) so, it’s really no hassle to get there by foot.  

The Royal Wawel Castle. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

To save time, we thought of starting our walking tour at Wawel Hill where the Wawel Palace and Krakow Cathedral or the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus are both located. It is in this heavily festooned church that Pope John Paul II (Karol Wojtyla) was ordained. 

Statue of St. John Paul II in front of the Krakow Cathedral. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    The best time to start the trip here is early in the morning (opening time) to avoid the crowd. The entrance to the complex and the Cathedral is free, but not to the museum of the Cathedral and the Palace. The interior of the Cathedral is one of the most intricately decorated cathedrals I have ever seen. However, since I was in Poland taking photos was not allowed and I could not cheat a snapshot because there were guards everywhere! Located in the crypt of the Cathedral were the remains of the some of most influential and important Polish citizens such as Chopin. 

View of the Krakow Cathedral or the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus. (Photo by Gregg M. Manalo)

From this point, there is a street leading to the Old Town Market Square. Along this street are important churches as the first baroque church in Krakow, St. John and St Paul Church. Beside this remarkable church is a monastery. If you happen to start your trip in the morning, you would find a number of food stands selling freshly-baked native bread and pretzels. 

The first Polish Baroque church of St. Peter and St.Paul. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Freshly-baked pretzels. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Before reaching the Old Town Market Square, there’s another church on Franciszkanska  where the Bishop Palace is also located. This was the office St. John Paul II knocked on to express his desire for priesthood and as we say, the rest is history.

Franciscan Church opposite the Bishop's Palace. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Collegium Maius Courtyard. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From the Palace, we went straight to the oldest existing building of Jagiellonian University, the Collegium Maius. This is located at the corner of St. Anne’s and Jegiellonska Streets. The courtyard of the university is a must see. We were so lucky because when we arrived (9:45 AM) a ceremony (playing traditional march) just started.

Old Town Market Square. (Photo by Gregg Manalo) 

A few minutes from the University is the Old Town Market Square also called Main Market Square. It is a UNESCO World Heritage and is well preserved. The Main Market Square is the biggest medieval European square. It contains an array of stores selling handicrafts, souvenirs and other hand-made items. There’s also a very expensive restaurant if you don’t care about spending some Zloties.

Souvenir shop at the Main Market Square. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Cloth Hall. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    In and around the Square are important structures such as the Cloth Hall, Town Hall Tower, Medieval Krakow, Adam Mickiewicz Monument, the Church of St. Mary, and St. Adalbert Church.

Town Hall Tower. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Gothic Church of St. Mary. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From the Square, we traversed Florianksa St. which led us to the Barbican. The Barbican or Rondel is the most important, largest, and most attractive circular fortification. This very impressive structure was built for the main purpose of defense and this one in Krakow is one of the biggest in Europe.

The Barbican. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

A few meters away for the Barbican on Szpitalna St. is the impressive Krakow Theatre. From there we headed back to the Old Town Market Square to enjoy the local food that the different were offering during the time of our visit. 

Krakow Opera House. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

It was like a fiesta; there were several stalls selling all sorts of Polish items: souvenirs, hand-made products, porcelain, and most especially food. I tried their fried whole potatoes and fresh mushrooms. There were tables and benches provided for those who purchase food from the food stalls. I really enjoyed the experience of eating in open area with other people you do not know.

Adam Mickiewicz Monument. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)