A Saint, the Jews, and Krakow

Participants are Getting Ready for the Parade. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From Warsaw, we travelled by car south to Krakow which is absolutely unfamiliar to me. This is another historically important city which is often mentioned in documentaries or movies whose theme is Jews and the Holocaust. And recently, it has become even more popular because of the beatification of Pope John Paul II who started his priesthood here.

Road leading to Krakow from Warsaw. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

There was no autobahn directly connecting Warsaw to Krakow. At the time of our travel in May 2015, the only possibility was through country roads which were not really in good condition. However, I could see that there were several road constructions going on which would connect three autobahns (A1, A2 and A4) together. This would make travelling much faster in the future because it would by-pass cities and villages which normally slow down traffic.

 

Old Jewish Settlement. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Initially, I wasn’t really impressed about Krakow. Buildings looked abandoned and the looked as if no amount of care or restoration is being made to salvage them from decay or eventual collapse. Then, its rich history taught me of its sufferings during the war. Those sufferings are still evident in these buildings.

Factory once rented by Oscar Schindler. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Our walk to the Old Jewish settlement took me to one of Oskar Schindler’s rented factories which employed several Jews during the Holocaust. This employment also saved several hundreds of lives.  

Corpus Christi Church (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

St. Pauline Church on the Rock. (Photo by Gregg Manalo) 

There are also synagogues and churches with elaborate interiors in the area. One thing I noticed in Poland is that taking photos inside the churches is strictly prohibited and visitation during Mass is not allowed. This part of Krakow also seemed to look more impoverished because of the old buildings that were not renovated.

 

The High Synagogue. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Our second day in Krakow was spent in The Old Town. Our hotel was strategically located to it (10 minutes walk) so, it’s really no hassle to get there by foot.  

The Royal Wawel Castle. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

To save time, we thought of starting our walking tour at Wawel Hill where the Wawel Palace and Krakow Cathedral or the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus are both located. It is in this heavily festooned church that Pope John Paul II (Karol Wojtyla) was ordained. 

Statue of St. John Paul II in front of the Krakow Cathedral. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    The best time to start the trip here is early in the morning (opening time) to avoid the crowd. The entrance to the complex and the Cathedral is free, but not to the museum of the Cathedral and the Palace. The interior of the Cathedral is one of the most intricately decorated cathedrals I have ever seen. However, since I was in Poland taking photos was not allowed and I could not cheat a snapshot because there were guards everywhere! Located in the crypt of the Cathedral were the remains of the some of most influential and important Polish citizens such as Chopin. 

View of the Krakow Cathedral or the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus. (Photo by Gregg M. Manalo)

From this point, there is a street leading to the Old Town Market Square. Along this street are important churches as the first baroque church in Krakow, St. John and St Paul Church. Beside this remarkable church is a monastery. If you happen to start your trip in the morning, you would find a number of food stands selling freshly-baked native bread and pretzels. 

The first Polish Baroque church of St. Peter and St.Paul. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Freshly-baked pretzels. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Before reaching the Old Town Market Square, there’s another church on Franciszkanska  where the Bishop Palace is also located. This was the office St. John Paul II knocked on to express his desire for priesthood and as we say, the rest is history.

Franciscan Church opposite the Bishop's Palace. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Collegium Maius Courtyard. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From the Palace, we went straight to the oldest existing building of Jagiellonian University, the Collegium Maius. This is located at the corner of St. Anne’s and Jegiellonska Streets. The courtyard of the university is a must see. We were so lucky because when we arrived (9:45 AM) a ceremony (playing traditional march) just started.

Old Town Market Square. (Photo by Gregg Manalo) 

A few minutes from the University is the Old Town Market Square also called Main Market Square. It is a UNESCO World Heritage and is well preserved. The Main Market Square is the biggest medieval European square. It contains an array of stores selling handicrafts, souvenirs and other hand-made items. There’s also a very expensive restaurant if you don’t care about spending some Zloties.

Souvenir shop at the Main Market Square. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Cloth Hall. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

    In and around the Square are important structures such as the Cloth Hall, Town Hall Tower, Medieval Krakow, Adam Mickiewicz Monument, the Church of St. Mary, and St. Adalbert Church.

Town Hall Tower. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Gothic Church of St. Mary. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

From the Square, we traversed Florianksa St. which led us to the Barbican. The Barbican or Rondel is the most important, largest, and most attractive circular fortification. This very impressive structure was built for the main purpose of defense and this one in Krakow is one of the biggest in Europe.

The Barbican. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

A few meters away for the Barbican on Szpitalna St. is the impressive Krakow Theatre. From there we headed back to the Old Town Market Square to enjoy the local food that the different were offering during the time of our visit. 

Krakow Opera House. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

It was like a fiesta; there were several stalls selling all sorts of Polish items: souvenirs, hand-made products, porcelain, and most especially food. I tried their fried whole potatoes and fresh mushrooms. There were tables and benches provided for those who purchase food from the food stalls. I really enjoyed the experience of eating in open area with other people you do not know.

Adam Mickiewicz Monument. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Wonderful Warsaw

The King Zygmunt III Waza Column (Photo by Gregg Mnaalo)

Poland was a part of our European historical tour in 2015. From Berlin, we travelled eastward until we reached the Polish-German border. From there, I saw the obvious difference between Germany and Poland not only in terms of infrastructure, but also in the types of cars plying on the roads and the physical appearance of villages that we passed by along the way.

Beautiful and colourful bridge in Poland. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Our GPS took us to country roads although we had been desperately searching for autobahns (motorways) for us to get to the Polish capital, Warsaw, faster. Google advised us in advance through its online map that our trip would had been more or less 5 hours, but the GPS was telling something different – almost 8 hours – which caused us to fret and find an alternative route.

Enchanting alley in German-Polish border. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The eastward route from Berlin to Warsaw was dominated by big farmlands and small villages which were mainly made of brick houses that were reminiscent of old Europe that I am so fond of. In our quest to find the autobahn, we passed by several gas stations and asked for directions which hopefully would lead us to the autobahn, but we always ended up on country roads until we finally decided to purchase a map.

Maps are available at gas stations along the way. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The low-tech map told us that there are very few autobahns in Poland and there is one originating from Berlin which goes all the way to Warsaw. We didn’t take it because we were faithful to the high-tech navigator. Sometimes, the good old map is much better than the more advanced GPS.

Warsaw at night. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Upon reaching Warsaw, I saw signs of economic development. Skyscrapers are very visible and several construction sites are paving for new establishments such as hotels and office buildings.

Statue of Nikolaus Copernicus (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Warsaw is a prominent city in history books. Just like most European cities, it saw and suffered from the ravages of wars. Old pictures of Warsaw which I saw posted on the walls of some of the sites here took me several years back when the city was devastated by bombings. It was simply horrific.

 

Marie Curie Museum (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

But today, Warsaw is a booming city in Eastern Europe and a popular tourist destination. I saw swarm of tourists all over the city especially in popular meeting points such as the Old Town Market Square and the Royal Route. Several restaurants and cafes that line the streets are almost always full.

The Warsaw Mermaid Statue at The Old Town Market Square (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

 

Old Town Market Square (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Free Wifi spots are available at the Old Town Market Square. This feature is especially beneficial for those individuals who would like to share online status and pictures with friends like myself. Speaking of Old Town Market Square, do check out Wasza Art and Coffee. It serves exquisite cakes and drinks. I had my very first apple pie and hot chocolate with chili there and I was more than satisfied. The ambiance was great with all the old pictures and books which you can browse (and read if you can understand Polish) while waiting for your snacks and drinks. It also played great background music which could complete your relaxing mood while enjoying your drinks and snacks.

Wasza Art and Coffee (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

 

A selection of dumplings is a must-try. (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

One of the great things about Poland in general is that food is much more affordable compared to other European countries. Euro, by the way, is not accepted here, so it is wise to change money and get the local currency – Zloty. Speaking of food, their dumplings which come in different varieties are a-must try for tourists. I tried them myself and I find them really delicious. Do try also their local drinks – an infusion of different fruits and herbs – which are packed with health benefits so they claim. I tried them and they’re really refreshing.

The Church of the Holy Cross (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

View of the Church of St. Jack (Dominican) from Pauline Church of the Holy Ghost (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

St. Joseph's Care Church (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

St. John the Baptist Archcathedral Basilica (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Church of St. Kazimierz (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Church of Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Church of St. Francis Seraphic (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Catholic churches are found everywhere in Warsaw which probably is the reflection of how religious most Polish people are. I could consider Poland as a country of Catholic Churches! They have all sorts of Catholic churches – Dominican, Franciscan - and  they were properly identified. Unlike other countries I visited, Polish people seemed to be very religious. Inside the church, I saw a mixture of old and young people meditatively praying. The gestures they showed when they enter or leave the church such as bowing or kneeling down also showed how much they value and respect the Church and how they practice their faith.

The Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

 

The Staszic Palace (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Barbican ((Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Square and the Large Bronze Bell from 1646 (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

The Little Insurgent Monument (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Warsaw University (Photo by Gregg Manalo)

Another great feature of this city is that the location of tourist spots such as historical landmarks and parks. They situated very close to one another which makes it very convenient for tourists to walk from one to the next. In one day, we were able to completely see all the important and identified landmarks in the new and old centers based on the tourist guide that we got from Tourist Information Center. Yes, it is highly recommended that you carry a map either from your hotel or the one directly from the Tourist Information Center at the Old Town Market Square which clearly indicates the location of the important landmarks in the area. However, I can recommend that three days and two nights would be the more ideal length of stay in Warsaw for you to be able to completely see and enjoy all landmarks.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Pitsudski Square (Photo by Gregg Manalo)