Banaue Rice Terraces

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Memoirs of Our Faculty Development Training in Banaue

So much has been said and written about the Banaue Rice Terraces, but the thrill of experiencing this 2,000 year-old irrigation and engineering wonder cannot be expressed in simple words.

When we learned about this trip to Banaue and Sagada in the north for our faculty development program, we all became so excited that our Facebook walls were filled with expectations and fantasies of what we could see and do there. Eventually, the Sagada part of the trip was cancelled due to time constraints, but that situation didn’t lessen our excitement.

It was a long trip to Ifugao, the province in the Cordillera region where the world-renowned Banaue Rice Terraces are located. Although Banaue is not the capital city of the province, I think this place is even more popular than its capital city, Lagawe.

When we arrived and checked in at the Banaue View Inn, we hurriedly looked for our respective rooms, unpacked our luggage and embarked on our first challenge---trekking to the waterfalls located at the top of the mountain on the other side of the valley. The falls looked deceivingly near as it was visible from the balcony of the hotel we were staying at, but the mostly vertical foot path leading to this natural beauty proved to be a challenge to everyone. First, we crossed a hanging bridge which serves as the shorter way to reach the other side of the valley. Then, the ascent began.

It was a difficult and exhausting journey, but we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the terraces from the different directions as we ascended the narrow and steep path. I can frankly say that the trail was relatively tidy and safe except for occasional parts which were covered with mud due to landslides which had occurred some days before. To keep the pace of the group, we stopped at different locations, took photos, and marvel at this gift from nature. Honestly, I couldn’t help but praise the indigenous people of Ifugao who built this structure---how much endurance they showed to carve the slope of the mountains with their bare hands, and transport stones to create terrace walls fixed and strong enough to withstand rain and flooding. No wonder it has gained the respect and distinction of the world such that it became part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

It took us nearly an hour traversing this imposing way; we passed by several clusters of native-built houses and were greeted by friendly folks whose smiles were pictures of virtuousness and sincerity. The close view of the waterfalls, the relaxing sound of its cascading water and its cool pristine water indisputably relieved our tired and somewhat sore muscles and joints. The pool at the foot of the waterfalls was inviting all of us to try its cool offering when the monsoon rain started to fall. Collectively, we took shelter underneath the makeshift hut near the falls.

Banaue is a mountainous area situated some 1,200 meters above sea level and one can expect it to be chilly up there, especially when it rains. We were all drenched and the nippy breeze shuttling from the mountains added to the agony of keeping ourselves warm within that small refuge. That time, I remembered the lesson I learned about the penguins when blizzards hit the South Pole --- they stand together to keep themselves warm and once in a while exchange positions so as not to expose just one penguin permanently to the freezing Arctic winds.

This gruelling situation which lasted for nearly two hours became a time for cracking jokes to entertain ourselves and to divert attention from the imminent danger. Finally, when the downpour became moderate, our local guide told us that we should start moving back to the hotel before the next rainfall. Soaking as we were, we secured our cameras and cellphones inside our bags and slowly navigated back to the hotel through, this time, a slippery and muddy trail. But through all this, we learned how to truly appreciate The Terraces and the people who built them, learned that tasks can be easily done with the assistance of others, and that security and safety can be achieved when a group stays together.

Day 2 was as adventurous and as action-packed as Day 1. The first morning task was to visit the local market, buy chicken and vegetables good for 6 persons worth 200 pesos and prepare them following the instructions given to us. Once prepared, they were sealed ready to be taken to the next village where we would cook and eat together with the local people. Our bargaining skills were tested in the market area and this continued after breakfast when we visited the souvenir shops for some pasalubong hunting. Then we had to rush to the village to experience preparing and cooking the native rice grown only in that area.

It sounds easy, but it was not merely about cooking rice. I was surprised how much our Superintendent, Mr. Keith Jones, being a foreigner, knows the people, the places and the customs there. The village where the next task awaited us was located in a valley some kilometres away from the hotel. When we arrived at the house owned by the leader of that community, Mr. Jones introduced each of us to her. I was surprised how eloquently the lady spoke in English. This can be explained by the fact that the second language of the people there is not Filipino, but English.

Her house reflected the simplicity of life there, the local customs and traditions that seem to bind them for centuries and the ingenuity innate to the Ifugao people. Then the task began after some brief explanations on how things should be done. Each group was given a bunch of newly harvested rice grains. Our first task was to separate the grains from the stalk, pound and winnow them using native tools. Eating on a piece of banana leaf was a like a fiesta featuring organic food. Another tradition which each of us tried was the chewing of nganga or betel nut for oral hygiene. For beginners and those not accustomed to this habit, like all of us, it was a not so delightful experience. We had to practically drool until the membranes of the mouth became numb. But this was not a problem for people there who grew up with this habit. Our trip back to the hotel took us through more of the rice terraces so we can proudly say that we had crisscrossed the dikes of this natural wonder.

The last day was spent for visiting the museum owned by the famous H. Otley Beyer who also happened to be the grandfather of the owners of the hotel we stayed in. His collections from his explorations which range from potteries to native costumes were exhibited in the museum. We also headed to a district in Banaue called View Point where tourists can marvel at the postcard view of one of the groups of rice terraces there. No word can describe the beauty of this place. We were in awe at seeing a place where we used to see it only on postcards.

Traversing the rugged terrains of the Cordillera highlands, we headed back home taking the memories and lessons from our journeys and activities. We realized then that this trip was entirely different from all the trips we had before, it was an immense learning experience for all of us. In this trip, we were not just tourists, but explorers trying to learn new things. Banaue offers more than just the scenic view of its lush green mountains and terraces but a realization about how we can be better professionals in our chosen fields, about being social human beings, about culture and our Filipino heritage which we can all be proud of.